清朝位面悠闲生活龙袍背后的历史故事
导读:在我们熟知的影视剧中,皇帝们总是穿着鲜艳夺目、龙纹斑斓的龙袍出现在银幕上。然而,这种场景在清朝之前是不可能发生的,因为那些“衣冠”的实质其实是专为死后准备的“寿衣”。
现今,我们经常看到古代皇帝被误认为穿着明朝或其他朝代的龙袍,其实这是一种错误的历史装扮。
唐朝以前,君王和皇帝对服饰颜色的规定非常严格,有时甚至缺乏统一标准。西周到东周时期,根据《礼记月令》的记载,天子都穿着青色衣服。而秦始皇则按照五行(水火木金土)与五色(黑白青赤黄)的配对原则,将自己定位为黑色服饰。在晋代,以赤色为尊贵,因此晋代皇帝都以红袍著称。但随着时间推移,“五德”说遭到了挑战,一些皇帝不再遵循这一准则。
隋朝时期,由于文帝和炀帝所著黄袍并未禁止百姓穿戴同样颜色的衣服,所以黄袍逐渐成为仅供皇室成员之用。在唐高祖武德年间,更是明确禁止臣民佩戴黄袍,并将其作为一种特殊身份象征。《新唐书》中提到,当时只有赭黄 袍及带中才能作为常服,而天子的服饰稍有不同,又增加了赤黄元素,从而正式禁绝臣民使用此类装束。
从周至明 dynasty, imperial attire was primarily black in color, with the Qin to Western Han era's all-black ceremonial robes having no pattern or emblem. Later dynasties would modify and rearrange these twelve patterns to demonstrate their respect for the Zhou ritual system, yet maintain consistency in following the overall direction of Zhou rituals.
The Qin Dynasty was associated with Water Deity; Han Dynasty with Fire Deity; Tang Dynasty with Earth Deity; and Song Dynasty again with Fire Deity. As a result, water-deified emperors wore black garments, fire-deified ones wore red hues that were more akin to dark crimson than modern Chinese reds; earth-deified rulers donned yellow tones that were not as bright as our current understanding of yellow.
In the Tang era, while emperors still donned black-furrowed ceremonial robes for official duties such as state affairs and ceremonies during coronations or burials when alive or deceased respectively., they also had daily attire made from vermilion (朱). Initially during early Tang times ordinary people could wear clothes adorned by Chen Ming but this practice was later banned due to confusion between clear yellow and jasper yellow so any type of clothing worn by officials is forbidden.
"Clear" is homophonous to "darkness", thus "clear dressings" usually referred to royal funeral outfits known as "funeral clothes".
Song and Ming Dynasties are both considered under Fire Deity rule especially since Ming Emperor Jiajing who ruled China under surname Zhu took pride in Red colors thus royal attire often featured predominantly red hues even in everyday life though not those shiny bright colors we associate today’s perception of Yellow. The golden-yellow crowns visible on existing portraits are only found at burial sites - an accessory reserved for royalty after death rather than something they would be seen wearing while living.
As a result traditional theater arts experienced cultural disconnection due to the Qing period's fashion discontinuity which led historical inaccuracies persisting into contemporary TV dramas where we see actors dressed up in what appear like royal funeral garb throughout most scenes.
Due largely then to these misrepresentations caused by television shows it seems natural for us all too believe that dragon robes must be fitting attire for monarchs. But truthfully only Qing dynasty Emperors ever actually wore them: specifically designed clothing meant solely for use after death - henceforth misunderstood through media portrayals as essential regalia fit only for kingship.